DryCamp

FAQ

Straight Answers

My roof is leaking today. Coat it now or repair first?

Press on the deck around the leak. Firm? Clean, dry, detail-coat the failed area, and coat the roof. Spongy? The plywood is wet — repair the deck first, then coat. Sealing water inside a roof cavity is the one mistake you cannot undo cheaply.

Do I have to strip the old lap sealant off first?

No — remove only what is loose or flaking. Sound old sealant gets detail-coated over at heavy build. That is one of the biggest labor savings versus a tear-off style redo.

Can I just coat the seams and skip the field?

You can, and it beats doing nothing, but the field is where oxidation and pinholes happen next. Seam-only jobs are why we see the same roofs twice. The whole-roof price difference is usually two gallons.

How long does the job take, start to finish?

Wash and prep one afternoon, detail-coat and first field coat the next morning, second coat after the 6-hour recoat window. A committed weekend for a typical camper, with rain-safe film 4 hours after each coat at 70°F.

What is the lifespan versus just recaulking every year?

Fresh lap sealant buys 2–4 years per joint, forever. The membrane is a 10-year-plus surface that renews with a single wash-and-recoat — no stripping. Over a decade you touch the roof once instead of five times.

It is October and 45°F. Can I still coat?

Wait for a 50°F+ window with a dry roof and no dew before the film skins (2–3 hours). Cold does not ruin the coating in the pail — it just stalls the cure on the roof. If winter beats you, tarp the camper and do it right in spring.

Stop My Leak

Tell us about your project and we will follow up with product details, technical data sheets, and pricing.